FAQs

A hand-held radio has a much smaller range than a fixed VHF, as it only transmits at a maximum of 5W and its aerial is much lower. However, a hand-held can be very handy as back-up, and to use when in the cockpit to save you having to use the fixed set when entering harbour. Also, it can be taken with you into a liferaft.

​In the UK, radio licensing is managed by Ofcom. In the RoI, you can get more information from the Department of Transport.

With DSC, a distress call (Mayday) is initiated by pressing a button for 5 seconds, which sounds an alarm on all DSC-equipped vessels in range. In an emergency, even untrained crew can send a Mayday using DSC, as it requires no special skill to send a distress message that gives your position.

As Coastguard rescue centres may not have a dedicated listening watch on channel 16 (although they monitor the channel routinely through a loudspeaker on the wall), and ships are no longer required to keep a listening watch on channel 16, using DSC may be the only way of raising an alert. DSC also enables a vessel to call another specific vessel without using channel 16 and without alerting other vessels in the area.

HM Coastguard (which coordinates UK search and rescue at sea) has no intention of stopping monitoring channel 16 for the foreseeable future. It currently monitors routinely through a loudspeaker, although a headset watch can be set at the discretion of the watch manager at each MRCC (Maritime Rescue Coordination Centre) if radio traffic or incident levels warrant it.

In the future, any changes to this policy will be based on international agreement (through the International Maritime Organization), best practice and the development of better technologies that become widely available and accepted by all maritime communities (leisure, fishing, commercial and others).

A few hand-held DSC radios crept onto the market a couple of years ago but, for a number of reasons (legal, technological and commercial), these units have been withdrawn and at present it is not possible to purchase a hand-held VHF radio with DSC capability.

​The obvious answer is move to another spot! Remember, VHF is 'line-of-sight' only and the blind spot is often small, perhaps due to a nearby cliff or island blocking your 'view' of the shore-based aerial or other vessels. However, if you are in danger and it is not possible to move to another area, or if the blind spot is large, you must fall back on distress flares or the other approved methods detailed in various leaflets and marine publications.

A Mayday call is only to be used when a boat or person is in grave and imminent danger and requires immediate assistance. Depending on whether or not your radio is fitted with DSC or not, a Mayday call consists of two or three parts: a DSC alert, the distress alert and the distress message.

To trigger a DSC alert, lift the tab over the distress button. On some radio sets you may have to press the button once and then press again and hold for 5 seconds, while on others you may only need to press the button for 5 seconds. Assuming the DSC controller is connected to a working GPS receiver, pressing the button will send a digital distress call in less than half a second. The call automatically includes your identity, your position and the time of the call. It will continue to send a digital distress every 4 minutes until it is acknowledged. The DSC alert needs to be followed by a voice Mayday call. 

The voice Mayday call is made up of two parts: the distress alert and the distress message. The distress alert consists of:

• ‘Mayday, Mayday, Mayday’
• 'This is … (name of boat said three times)'
• 'Mayday … (name of boat) … (if the call follows a DSC alert, then add the MMSI).'

The distress message is:

• 'Position … (either in latitude and longitude or distance and bearing from a known point)'
• Say what type of distress you are experiencing, for example 'sinking', 'on fire', 'man overboard' or other distress. 
• 'Require further assistance'
• Say how many people you have onboard.
• Further information, such as 'abandoning to liferaft'
• Over.

For more information, see Sea Safety: The Complete Guide.

​A SEA check is free and provides friendly, confidential and impartial safety advice for owners of all types of leisure craft and all levels of experience.

​The easiest way to register your boat with HM Coastguard as part of the CG66 scheme is online. Alternatively, you can pick up a registration form from your nearest coastguard station.

The Irish Coast Guard operates a similar scheme. Download the form 

In our opinion, a lifejacket is the most important piece of safety equipment. It should be worn correctly and have crotch straps, a spray hood and a light.

How far are you going? Consider whether you are crossing oceans or staying in sheltered or inshore waters. The usual bandages, pins and plasters, as found in an over-the-counter first aid kit, are fine but minimal if you are in sheltered or inshore waters, as you should be able to get help quickly. However, crossing oceans obviously requires greater self sufficiency than a day trip around the bay, so you would need to increase the basic first aid kit to be far more comprehensive, as assistance could be days rather than hours away.

​Actually, it's fairly easy. Even though the list of safety equipment we suggest for boats cruising inshore waters appears to be lengthy, careful packing allows it all to be stowed away securely, even in relatively small boats. To prove it, our 4.8m RIB demonstrator carries all the gear we recommend. To find out what safety equipment you need for your individual boat, please ask for a SEA check. Call us today on Freefone UK 0800 328 0600 or Freephone RoI 1800 789 589, or book a SEA check online.

Wearing a crash helmet on your PWC keeps your head warmer and protects your head from injury during a collision or if you fall off. ​

This depends on the type of boating you do, how far offshore you intend to travel and personal circumstances. As a starting point, it is useful to have two sizes of grab bag: a personal bag with small items such as flares, boat documents, car keys and hand-held radio, and a larger grab bag with thermal protective aids, extra water, EPIRB or PLB. For a more detailed look at grab bags, see Sea Safety: The Complete Guide.

You should consider surface marker buoys (SMBs), personal waterproof flares or a personal location beacon. Bright day-glo-coloured hoods are also effective when trying to locate surfacing divers.

If you are in the water and you see a rescue helicopter coming your way, remove your hood. This will release some heat from your head, which will be picked up on the helicopter's infrared camera. Dye is also effective when you'd like to be spotted from the air, but is difficult to see from the surface. It can be purchased from most dive shops. ​

In anything other than a flat calm sea, you will very quickly lose sight of a head or even a lifebuoy in the water. A dan buoy is little more than a flag on a long stick, but the flag remains visible above any waves and so provides a reference point to a helm looking for a person in the water, or for the person in the water looking for the lifebuoy. The dan buoy should therefore be attached by a line to the lifebuoy and both should be mounted in the cockpit so that they are near to hand if they need to be thrown overboard.​

If the lifebuoy is lost from your boat and found by someone else, the name of your boat can be passed on to the coastguard. The coastguard can then establish which vessel it has come from and that the vessel is not in distress. If your lifebuoy does not have a name on it, a search could be started unnecessarily.​

​Good quality cable cutters and bolt croppers can cut rigging wire of up to 8mm diameter, but you will need a stronger set of tools to snip through the 10mm rigging on your 13m yacht. Hydraulic cutters, such as Norseman MM58 or those from Izumi, can provide the extra muscle power required to cut through thicker wire and rod rigging. Some ratchet cutters may also be strong enough to cut through the stainless steel wire. Another solution is the Shoot It 12 shroud and cable cutter. The device uses Hilti cartridges (used in building-site nail guns) to fire a captive chisel that slices easily through the cable. As with all emergency equipment, it makes good sense to practise with the equipment under safe conditions, using old wire.

When motoring at sea, many angling boats use rod holders fitted to the safety rail, which hold the rod up and away from the cockpit area. Rod holders can be bought from a good chandler or sea angling shop. A modern alternative now available is to use a telescopic boat rod that is compact when packed away. ​

​The list could be endless, particularly on a petrol engine that relies heavily on electrical power to work. Basic spares include belts, filters, spare engine oil, water pump impellers, a can of clean fuel, a fuel injector and fuel line, spark plugs and HT leads. All the spares in the world will not help if you do not know how to fit them or lack the proper tools. Planned maintenance is much better than crash maintenance, so make sure you keep your engine properly maintained and serviced regularly.

​An auxiliary outboard of up to 10hp will be sufficient for most craft. There is very little advantage in getting anything with more power, as this will start to compromise space. It is worth keeping a spare can of fuel for your auxiliary engine onboard. Where possible, keeping the fuel mix the same as your primary engine will save you from having to keep two types of fuel onboard.

​This really depends on the size of your craft. A table of appropriate anchor sizes for specific craft can be found in the RYA's Boat Safety Handbook. The type of anchor can also affect holding capabilities and a list of anchors can be found in Sea Safety: The Complete Guide.

​Front windows in a cuddy are safe when operating an anchor as long as the dangers are understood. Many accidents happen if lifting windows are left unsecured: they can trap hands, the head and other parts of the body if they fall. An opening front window can also allow a great deal of water to be taken aboard very quickly if there is a heavy sea running.

​It is always best to anchor through the towing eye as this is very strong and will be less likely to capsize the boat due to wave action.

When anchoring with an anchor and chain only, the minimum amount of anchor chain recommended is three times the depth of water. When using anchor, chain and warp, the length should be increased to a minimum of five times the depth of water. ​

All vessels at sea must comply with the International Regulations for the Prevention of Collisions at Sea (IRPCS). Rule 30 states 'a vessel at anchor must display an all-round white light or one black ball in the fore part'. However, 'a vessel less than 7m in length, when at anchor, not in or near a narrow channel, fairway or anchorage, or where other vessels normally navigate, shall not be required to exhibit the lights or shape prescribed'. A complete guide to IRPCS is available from the RYA, the ISA and most good chandlers. ​

Also known as a drogue, a sea anchor is a parachute-shaped piece of canvas or porous nylon that, when streamed from the bow of a vessel, will help keep the vessel pointing into the wind and waves. When streamed astern it helps to prevent broaching in a following sea.​

Look inside the transom. Can you see the steering arm for the outdrive? Can you disconnect it from the cable or rod and work it by hand? If not, then the best steering, and also alternative means of propulsion, is a platform-mounted outboard motor. A small outboard motor will not get you anywhere fast but it may keep you out of trouble while you wait for help. Other than that, it's oars and buckets on ropes! ​

​First, appoint a member of the crew to make a Mayday call or fire a flare. Ideally, every boat with an inboard engine should be fitted with an automatic fire extinguisher. These are triggered automatically if the temperature in the engine compartment goes over a predetermined level. Usually, the extinguishant is either an inert gas such as FM-200 or FE-36 or a micro-powder created from an aerosol pack. The size of the extinguisher is determined by the capacity of the engine compartment: take advice from the extinguisher supplier.

In some cases, it may be possible to use a manual extinguisher to supplement the automatic extinguisher. The engine compartment may have a hole that allows you to poke the nozzle of the extinguisher through. The extinguisher needs to be kept upright.

A more risky approach is to open the access hatch of the compartment just enough to insert the nozzle, and fire the extinguisher through the gap. It is important not to allow air to be sucked into the compartment, as this will make the fire worse. If possible, close or smother the compartment air intakes.

If the fire cannot be brought under control, prepare to abandon ship. Read more about onboard fires in Sea Safety: The Complete Guide.

First, appoint a member of the crew to make a Mayday call or fire a flare. With the engine cover on, use either a manual AFFF (foam) or a dry powder extinguisher in an upright position and squirt the extinguishant through the air intake at the back or top of the engine. Do not take the cover off, as this will make the fire much worse. Do not be tempted to lift up the cover after using the extinguisher as the fire could reignite.  

If the fire cannot be brought under control, prepare to abandon ship. Read more about onboard fires in Sea Safety: The Complete Guide.

Each different type of fire extinguisher is best suited to particular types of fires, and you should consider this when choosing. A mix of extinguisher types can be expensive, but would cover all possible types of fire on your craft.

The most common extinguisher for the inside of a boat is a dry powder fire extinguisher. A 1kg dry powder extinguisher will only give you 6–8 seconds of firefighting capability, and so should only be used for small, contained fires or as a means of clearing a path for escape. Be careful when using a CO₂ extinguisher in small spaces or on loose material, as the force could blow fire particles to other areas of the boat. Read more about fire extinguishers in Sea Safety: The Complete Guide. 

There are three alternatives:  

• Take them to a fire extinguisher maintenance company.

• Take them back to your supplier.

• Contact your local council, which will be able to guide you.

SOLAS (Safety Of Life At Sea) V (the portion of the SOLAS regulations that applies to leisure craft) states: 'Any vessel practicably able must carry a radar reflector.' An angling boat is certainly 'practicably able' and so should carry a radar reflector. ​

Interference will only occur if the reflector is in the sweep of the rotating antenna of your radar. If you are able to, it is preferable to mount it higher than the antenna of the radar. ​

​There have been reports in the boating press comparing these devices, which should help you choose. Even the simplest radar reflector works, although your choice might be influenced by budget or where you will locate it on your boat. Another thing to consider is a radar target enhancer (RTE). An RTE on your vessel sends a magnified echo back to the vessel that has sent you a radar signal, thus ensuring you will be noticed. Unlike reflectors, they do require a power supply to work.

As part of SOLAS (Safety Of Life At Sea) V requirements, a radar reflector must be fitted where practicable, so it cannot be replaced with an RTE. An RTE also requires power to function and so will not work if power is not available. However, an RTE, when switched on, does give a far better radar return and may be very useful in busy shipping lanes when you want your vessel to stand out. ​

​A SART is a search and rescue radar transponder that allows any other vessel with radar to pinpoint the position of the vessel with the SART. It operates on 9GHz and will only respond to an X-band radar.

An EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) sends a digital message to a satellite, which then bounces it to a search and rescue location, for example, the coastguard. EPIRBs operate on differing frequencies, depending on the use of the boat, and give an accurate position whether manually or automatically operated.  

A PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) is a small transmitter that gives a position of the person but it is not as powerful as an EPIRB. A PLB is often worn like a watch by divers. ​

​Navtex is part of the GMDSS (Global Maritime Distress and Safety System). It transmits weather and navigational information. It operates on 518kHz in English and 490kHz in the local language of wherever you are. HM Coastguard transmits inshore forecasts on 490kHz in the UK.

AIS stands for Automatic Identification Scheme and can be used, for example, by Port Control to track the exact course and progress of a particular vessel. ​

Your trailer wheel bearings should be checked regularly. Some wheels have specially designed wheel hubs, which keep the bearings sealed from water. If you have unprotected bearings, they should be greased after every immersion. To prevent undue damage to the bearings, always allow them to cool down after driving to your launch site and before you immerse the bearings in cold water. ​

It is advisable to have a separate, dedicated throw line for a number of reasons. If you rely on the other lines as your throw line, they may be in use for something else when you need them. In addition, a throw line is better for the job as it is a floating rope and is therefore easier for someone to grab. It is also light enough to throw a reasonable distance. ​

​A try-sail is a very small, strong mainsail that can be used in very strong winds. It helps to give propulsion and steerage.

The best (and most expensive) are image-stabilised binoculars. The clarity of the image is remarkable, even though they may not be as high powered as some. With regular binoculars (whether you have the conventional or more compact roof-prism type), magnification comes at a price. It also becomes more difficult to fix on an object with high-powered binoculars. Some people claim that the best binoculars are the ones you can slip in your pocket. Advice from a qualified retailer will help. ​

A bucket should have a lanyard long enough to enable it to reach the water when secured on deck. This will ensure that, when you're filling the bucket while the boat is moving, the drag does not pull the bucket from your hand.

Webbing and stitching deteriorate in sunlight and may become weakened after a number of years. Three years is the recommended lifespan of webbing, but this can be extended by removing the jack-stays at the end of the season and storing them below deck.​

​There are several types of flare pack available, including inshore, coastal and offshore. Even in sheltered waters, an inshore pack is advisable. You should consider carrying a pack one level up from your intended use. For example, for inshore use, carry a coastal or an offshore pack. The RYA Boat Safety Handbook gives good basic equipment advice.

Flare packs are a good guide for the number of flares you should carry. Often, the packs contain fewer than is generally recommended, so these should be topped up.

Here is our guide: 

When your boat is on fire and sinking, this is not the best time to be scrabbling about trying to find your flares and read the instructions, so make sure that you and your crew know how to use the flares and where they are stored on your vessel.

​This should be treated as a Mayday relay and the appropriate action should be taken.

The date stamped on the side of a flare is there for a very good reason. The manufacturers are unable to maintain a continued guarantee after this date that the device will perform to a strict specification laid down to meet SOLAS (Safety Of Life At Sea) requirements (height, intensity, colour, burn time). Out-of-date flares should not be used and should be replaced straight away. ​

​Do not throw any pyrotechnics overboard or in the bin. Many marinas can dispose of old flares, so check with them. Some harbour masters and chandlers will take them. If all else fails, contact your local HM Coastguard MRCC or MRSC, which will arrange for you to take the flares to your local coastguard station for disposal. Note: the MRCC cannot accept out-of-date flares for health and safety reasons. In the Republic of Ireland, see advice from the Department of Transport. 

Often people are tempted to use up their out-of-date flares on 5 November, but this causes real problems for the rescue services. It is illegal to fire a flare when not in a distress situation. We urge you to dispose of flares safely and responsibly.

There are many forecasts available, especially online, and we recommend you use more than one forecast, including one with a synoptic chart so that an accurate picture of at least the next 48 hours can be obtained. The use of a Navtex receiver onboard is a wise idea, as well as listening to the regular weather broadcasts on VHF. It is always prudent to postpone or shorten a trip if the weather looks inclement.​

​A lifejacket, with two CO_² canisters fitted, and two spare canisters are allowed per person. This is the official line, but we advise checking with your airline before travelling.

No. The services of the RNLI come without strings or discrimination of any sort. This is only possible due to the ongoing generosity of the public. Those using the sea might like to consider joining the RNLI's Offshore membership scheme to support the lifeboat crews they may one day come to depend upon.

The RNLI would prefer that people call for help sooner rather than later. Delaying calling for help could make the situation worse and endanger the lives of our volunteer crew. If there were a charge for rescue, some people might be reluctant and delay as long as possible. However, donations are always welcome. ​

Survival in the water depends on the health of the person falling in, the water temperature and the protective clothing worn. Without protective clothing, the average healthy person may become unconscious after 2–3½ hours as the core body temperature lowers. Unconsciousness increases the chances of drowning.  

If the body temperature is lowered to 26°C, this can result in death due to hypothermia. Another factor to consider is cold-water shock, which can occur within seconds of sudden immersion in cold water. Cold-water shock causes rises in blood pressure and heart rate, and a gasping reaction, which reduces breath-holding capacity.

Lifejacket servicing costs vary, depending on the supplier and the servicing agent, but are generally in the range of £10–£20. The costs of replacement automatic firing mechanisms and gas bottles, if required, are usually extra.

Lifejackets are available in a wide price range. Rather than thinking in terms of price, think in terms of the features on the lifejacket. You will need one that provides enough buoyancy and is a proper and comfortable fit. Make sure there is reflective tape. It is vital that the lifejacket comes with crotch straps, to prevent it from riding up over your head in the water. ​

All lifejackets come with different accessories, but it is recommended that your lifejacket should have at least crotch straps, a hood and a light. ​

Unfortunately, many people chose a lifejacket purely on price. Manufacturers are reluctant to include extra items such as crotch straps, light and spray hood as standard, preferring to keep the basic price as low as possible and then supplying extras, at extra cost, to those who wish to purchase them.

If you are unlucky enough to fall overboard and become separated from the boat, it may become dark before you are found. Also, the light will show as a heat source if searchers are using infrared. ​

​Do a simple inspection of your lifejacket a few times a year, at least. Check the stitching, buckles, folds, automatic firing mechanism and gas bottle. Also, at least twice a year, inflate the lifejacket and leave it overnight, to check for leaks. Check the tightness of the gas bottle every few trips as they can work loose and, very importantly, get your lifejacket serviced regularly.

Your lifejacket should be properly serviced in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. ​

If you fall in the water you want an inflated lifejacket to support you, so by far the best way to ensure this is through automatic inflation. It may be that you are unable to operate a manual inflation mechanism, possibly if unconscious or in shock.

Manually inflated devices might be better if your activity involves getting very wet. Even in these cases, a hydrostatically operated lifejacket actually needs to be a few centimetres below the surface and so is not likely to inflate itself in the spray of high-speed craft.

We get lots of questions on this topic. The type of buoyancy aid required depends on the type of boating being done. Naturally, some buoyancy aids are better than others for each activity. Sea Safety: The Complete Guide looks at the various types of watersports and gives information about buoyancy aids in the relevant sections.​

​Perhaps the most important thing to remember about using children's lifejackets is that they should fit properly. Avoid the temptation to buy a lifejacket that is a bit too big so that the child grows into it and you get an extra season out of it. It may mean that you have to buy a new lifejacket every year for a few years while they are growing, but it is not worth the risk of them slipping out of it in the water.

All air-only children's lifejackets are automatic. More information is available on the RNLI's Choosing a Child's Lifejacket leaflet. 

We recommend you add a whistle, retro-reflective tape, a drogue, a light and your boat's name to your lifebuoy.

Wrong question! The question should be: 'How do I prevent an MOB from happening?' If, however, it does happen then there are numerous pieces of equipment on the market to help with recovery. These include a rescue sling or lifesling, lifting equipment and recovery ladders. See MOB recovery techniques in Sea Safety: The Complete Guide.​

It depends. You should get the best you can afford, as you'll only need it when things go wrong and you'll want to be grateful for your choice, not regretting it. A major consideration is where you site it on your boat: it needs to be in a position that makes it is easy to launch, even by the weakest in your crew.

There are many courses available, depending on the type of boating you do. There are generic courses that are useful to everyone, for example a Short Range Certificate in how to operate VHF radio, first aid at sea, and theory courses that concentrate on navigation and chartwork. There are also various boathandling courses for your type of craft. Each course will give you confidence, increase your experience and make boating much safer and more enjoyable.

The amount of fuel your boat will use will depend on the size of the engine and whether it runs on petrol or diesel, two-stroke or four-stroke. It’s possible to use the engine maker’s specific fuel consumption curves to estimate consumption at any particular engine speed. However, for most of us, a rough estimate of consumption at full throttle is sufficient to use as a guide:

Diesel:

• A diesel engine burns about 1 gallon per hour for every 20hp. So a 90hp diesel would use about 4½ gallons of fuel per hour (90/20). For those who prefer to work in litres, simply multiply the horsepower by 2 and then divide by 9, so a 90hp diesel engine has an estimated consumption of 20l/hour ([2x90]/9).

Petrol:

• Four-stroke petrol engines use approximately 1 gallon per hour for every 15hp. So a 90hp petrol engine would use 6 gallons per hour (90/15). For a figure in litres, multiply hp by 3 and divide by 10, so a 90hp engine will consume around 27l/hour ([3x90]/10).

• For two-stroke petrol engines up to 50hp, multiply hp by 2 and divide by 5, so a 10hp two-stroke would use 4l/hour ([2 x10]/5). For two-stroke engines over 50hp, simply divide hp by three. Therefore, our 90hp two-stroke would use 30l/hour (90/3).

These are rule-of-thumb figures. Don’t forget that fuel consumption will increase if the boat’s bottom is dirty, if the boat is overloaded and in rough conditions. Consumption can be reduced by 30% by reducing revs by 10% – 500rpm on a petrol engine or about 300rpm on a diesel. To ensure you have sufficient fuel for a round trip, divide the amount of fuel you have onboard into thirds – one third to get there, one third to get back and one third spare. Sportsboats and motor cruisers burn considerably more fuel than cars. It’s not unusual for a motor cruiser to average 1–2 miles per gallon at full speed. 

It is important to be able to measure how fast you are going, not only to be able to work out fuel consumption but also in areas with specific byelaws in relation to speed. 

Boat speed at sea is measured in knots. A knot is 1 nautical mile per hour. A nautical mile is approximately 1,852 metres and is slightly longer than a statute mile (1,610 metres). So a boat travelling at 6 knots will be doing just less than 7mph, while 35 knots is the same as 40mph.  

The easiest way to measure speed is to fit a log (speedometer). Most measure the speed by using a small paddlewheel device fitted through the hull or on the transom. Some use a Pitot tube sensor, which reacts to water pressure, but these are not as accurate.

The speed shown from these devices is the speed of the boat through the water. To measure your speed over the ground, fit a GPS receiver. All GPS receivers have a page that will show speed. This can usually be set to show speed in knots, miles per hour and kilometres per hour.

You should carry a reasonable selection of large and small-scale charts for the area you intend to visit, and also have sufficient charts and pilot books in case you have to run to a safe haven in bad weather. Large-scale charts give good area coverage, where a smaller-scale chart gives you more detail of hazards, harbour entrances and other features.​

Passage planning or voyage planning is a procedure to develop a complete description of a vessel's voyage from start to finish. The plan includes leaving the berth or starting point, the en-route portion of a voyage, approaching the destination, and mooring.

Passage planning applies to all vessels, including small leisure craft, and is part of the SOLAS V regulations. According to international law, a vessel's captain or skipper is legally responsible for passage planning.

A passage plan includes all information relevant to the contemplated voyage or passage. A detailed plan of the whole voyage or passage should be prepared from berth to berth, and should consist of basic information such as weather and tide information, planning a route, estimated times of arrival, capabilities and strength of the crew and boat, and safety equipment required. Once complete, the plan should be executed and monitored during the voyage, and any changes should be clearly marked and recorded.

Lat is an abbreviation for lines of latitude. Latitude has the natural starting position of the equator and the latitude of a place on the earth's surface is the angular distance north or south of the equator.

Long stand for lines of longitude, which runs from pole to pole. There is no natural starting position for longitude and so a reference position, the Greenwich meridian, was chosen (in 1884) as the universal meridian or zero point of longitude. The longitude of a place on the earth's surface is the angular distance east or west of the Greenwich meridian (often called the prime meridian).

The point where the lines of latitude and longitude cross provides you with your position on the earth's surface.